The Pancake Queen

Nestled in the heart of the Ferringi neighborhood of Penang is a wonderful night market. It is a great setup. Haukers are lined up around the periphery and hundreds of picnic tables are in the center. Each table has a number and when you place your order at a stall you tell the attendant your table number and when the food is prepared they bring it to your table and collect the money.

This night market really has it all. Traditional Malay dishes like satay were available right off the coals. Indian food was abundant. The absolute best vindaloo I ever had was there. And there were also Chinese and Western stalls from everything from hamburgers to roast lamb.

But it was the sign that first caught my attention: The Pancake Queen. Let me begin by saying that I am suspicious of any royal titles when it comes to food preparation. With the Papaya King hotdog stand in New York City as a notable exception, titles often don’t stand up to the hype.

I was pleasantly surprised when I inspected the pancake menu to discover that in fact these were indeed pancakes and not those flat rice wafers that are sometimes served with some Thai dishes. No – these were cakes from the griddle complete with maple syrup and an endless number of toppings.

I quickly scanned the selections: strawberry, chocolate chip, pecan, sourdough, gingerbread, apple, cinnamon and the list went on and on. Each selection was accompanied with its own photo.

I was overwhelmed. In part because I had no expectation to find pancakes on this trip and to boot pancakes of such variety. Over two separate visits I tried two creations. I wish I had had more time to try them all.

Banana and Walnut

This is a classic combination. In some ways this was my first choice because it is such a diner staple that it provided a great point of comparison. Hands down this was the finest assembled stack that I have ever had.

In Chinese cooking, wok dishes are often cooked separately and the at the end all the wonderful pieces are put together. This dish was made in that same spirit.

The cakes were grilled, light and had wonderful lift. They were complex but were not overpowering. The walnut concoction was not mixed into the batter, but the nuts had been lightly toasted and candied to make them slightly sweet and sticky. This treatment allowed easy fork grabbing of equal portions of nuts to cake. Maple syrup – check. Light dusting of powered sugar – check. Butter pat – check. Scoop of premium vanilla ice cream – check. Lastly a whole banana split down the middle was placed on top. It had been sautéed in butter and was firm but tender to the fork.

★★★★★ Five Stars – it was a beautiful presentation and not a single addition could have made them better. Total cost – $3.00

Raisin Mix

Raisins are not a traditional pancake topping. I went with raisins as a second choice because I wanted to see how far the Pancake Queen could push her talents. Was she so bold that she thought she could pull this off or did she have the chops to impress me again?

The first bite made me immediately think of fruitcake. But good fruitcake! Perhaps this was a seasonal offering? But where fruitcake can be dry and stale this was moist and full of taste.

I quickly drifted off to a childhood dream where I thought of coming in from a fictitious sled ride, cheeks all rosy. There was snow on the ground and a roaring fire. On the kitchen table was a prepared stack of my mom’s pancakes waiting for me.

I awoke from the dream to discover that I was in southeast Asia, it was 85 degrees, the air was filled with gnats, I was sitting at a rickety table with an unknown Chinese family and that my reality was better than my fantasy.

★★★★★ Five Stars – Total cost – $3.00. I did not think it was possible to take a well-known entity like fruitcake and improve upon it to the point where I will never again be happy with Christmas cake.

I asked her majesty, the Pancake Queen for a photo that she happy to oblige a humble servant an audience. I got the feeling she gets this requests a lot. I walked away with a feeling of regret. It’s never going to get any better than this I thought.

Crepes Are Not Pancakes

When I see pancakes on a menu, I expect to get pancakes. But sometimes pancakes are actually crepes. What is the difference?

I believe the fundamental difference is that crepes are meant to be a delivery mechanism for something else. The best crepes are often touted for the wonderful berry flavor or that chocolate hazelnut spread.

But pancakes are different because the spongy grilled cake is the main actor on the stage with the syrup, berry compote or the powered sugar as merely a supporting role.

Note to self – when abroad consider what is meant by “pancake” on the menu. Because in the end it may actually pancake’s French cousin the crepe.

Corinthia Hotel London
“Pancake” 1 Star

Starbucks Pancakes

 

As a child I always loved traveling to far away places. That is because I would get to try the regional specialities of the local McDonald’s. Whether it was the Lobster Roll in Maine or the peach pies in Georgia.

With that sense of adventure I had to try the pancakes at the London Starbucks.

My local Starbucks doesn’t have pancakes. I ordered them with a sense of adventure, not believing they would be any good.

Point one – no syrup. Point two – rubbery.
Point three – premade and then toasted.

Overall score: 2

It scored a 2 mainly because I appreciate the effort.

Hong Kong Thanksgiving

One of my favorite holiday movies is Christmas Story.  There is a wonderful scene towards the end of the film where the family is forced to go to a Chinese restaurant because their meal is destroyed by the neighbor’s dogs. And although Peking Duck is not turkey, the family does it best to cope with Christmas in a foreign environment.

So I found myself in a similar situation to Raphie this Thanksgiving. No cold weather. No turkey. And no sweet potato casserole. Now some artists work in oils and clay but my sister Dana has perfected the yam medium. She is truly a master.

The highlight was that Jennifer’s parents were here to celebrate with us and in the end it is really about being with family.

We ended up renting a boat and taking a short cruise. It was a beautiful and somewhat lazy day. We feasted at the Rainbow Restaurant on Lamma Island. We enjoyed steamed shrimp, tasty scallops, and a deep fried fish that was out of this world. And amongst the bounty we enjoyed each others company.

When the whole fish arrived at the table I could not help but remark, “The fish is smiling at me.”

Walking in the Steps of Emperors

Beijing is overwhelming. Beijing is difficult. Beijing is a place that should not be missed.

Our recent trip to Beijing was more like going to the doctor’s office than taking a vacation. No one can deny that China in the 21^st century will make a global mark. China is here and now. And Beijing as the capital of this nation sits in the middle of all its past and all of its future.

For a Western to step in to this environment was a little overwhelming, scary and confusing. But it was also exciting and rewarding. One week in Beijing has not necessarily changed me but it has forever placed into context this great unknown and the possibilities and fears of the future.

We for the most part stuck to the well-worn paths of travelers before us. We saw Tiananmen Square, gazed upon the portrait of Mao, climbed the Great Wall, and enjoyed the Emperor’s homes at the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace.

But by far the greatest experience was simply being here in China’s capital. To see the progress that has been made over the past years and hope for the reforms that will make this a great nation. It is a new dynasty for China. And it was great to walk through this city and be a part of this new generation.

Gambling for Adventure

My in-laws are visiting Jennifer and I in Hong Kong. During their time here, there are a number small excursions that we are taking. It is very important to get that Passport stamped as many times as possible.

One small trip we took is to Macau. Macau, like Hong Kong is a part of China but it is also a Special Administrated Area. The Portuguese were a major influence in Macau in the same way the British were in Hong Kong. Thus – Macau has more of a European flavor in it food and architecture. It takes about an hour on a Jet Foil to get to our destination.

Today Macau is best known as the land of casinos. But there are many little avenues filled with pastry shops, churches and other cultural stops.

We hit a few as well as a Las Vegas style show called “The House of the Dancing Water.” It was one of the most impressive shows I have ever seen.

 

 

 

We are off to Beijing today. So more pictures to come.

A Wild Ride

A three-week vacation is a marathon, not a sprint. Thus as we began today’s adventure leisurely and fortified with my favorite meal of the day, breakfast.

 

We started off by picking up some bakery items from the small place near the apartment. They have some wonderful coconut bread and raisin twists. They are perfect for taking on the bus. Then we went for pancakes at McDonald’s. (There is something to be said about McDonald’s – you can travel the world over but the pancakes are the same wherever you are.)

Then we took a series of buses to Stanley. The bus ride to Stanley takes about an hour on on top of a double deck bus it is a more exciting ride than many roller-coasters.  Stanley is best known as a sleepy beachside community and the home the Hong Kong Maritime Museum, which happens to be my current place of employment.

We arrived in town just in time for the turtle’s bath at the local temple. (Sorry no pictures out of respect for the turtle) Then we dashed to the museum just as the rain started to fall. I took the Orville and Thelma around the museum and told them a little about what I am currently working on.

We had a fabulous lunch at a Vietnamese restaurant. We all ate fishcake and a yummy coleslaw chicken salad.

Then it was off to the famous Stanley Market. Thelma was tempted by a few things to buy but in the end we only walked away with one souvenir, a terra-cotta warrior in miniature.

Not a bad day for a light adventure.

Pirates and Parents

Jennifer’s parents arrived on Saturday morning for a three-week visit. We immediately went into a tour mindset. By the end of the first day they had eaten a Chinese meal, floated across the harbor on a ferry, rode the ding ding, and climbed to the top of the peak on the tram. Wow – what a start.  It is important for visitors that have crossed the dateline to stay up as late as possible on the first day or else they will never adjust to the new time difference. I am happy to report, both of our guests crashed Saturday evening and were ready bright and early on Sunday to get started again.

Sunday was intended to be a more laid back day. We decided to take them to the outlying island of Cheung Chau. This island is best known as a notorious hangout of pirates back in the day and the annual bun festival.

Departing from the Central Piers, we took the ferry to out to the island. It takes about 45 minutes. We took a leisurely walk that turned into a strenuous hike. Along the way there were some wonderful view, wildlife and plant life.

One of the highlights was taking a short sampan ride to the other side of island where we saw the cave of Cheung Po Tsai. He is reported to have stashed all his treasure on the island.

We ended the evening by going to a Japanese restaurant for pork tenderloins. All in all, a pretty good day!

Daaih Pàaih Dong

Whether one is looking for high-end, low-end or no-end food in Hong Kong, it can be found. Perhaps one of the most beloved forms of eateries is the daaih pàaih dong? It is not on the bottom of the food ladder, but it is close. And when I say bottom I am only describing décor, ambience and seating. I am not referring to taste.

Characterized by its outdoor seating, benches with no backs, questionable sanitization protocols and it’s well known reputation as a place to go at three in the morning when the body cannot take in any more liquids, the daaih pàaih dong should be noted as a fine place to grab a meal.

Please note dear reader that one can pay for a more expensive meal, but regardless of the price, the fact remains, tasty food can be found at all levels.

A colleague of mind helped me navigate into this world of tasty food on the cheap. Our entire meal was less than $13 US.

I had some tasty little deep fried herrings with rice. The fish was prepared in the famous salt and pepper seasoning. With heads and tails included I made my way through the meal. My only complaint was that the tiny bones made it difficult to eat. Western tastes don’t often encourage eating the bones, tails or heads, so this may not be everyone’s favorite thing.

Overall – a great experience. One that anyone visiting Hong Kong should try.

Chinese Pancakes

In an effort to provide a fair and balanced review of all things related to the pancake, I am doing a write up on Chinese pancakes. Let me begin by saying that they are pancakes only in name. Thus, it would be unfair to subject this offering under the rigid scoring system that I have created. They do not count as pancakes in three major ways:

1. They are a baked product, not made from a batter and grilled in a pan.
2. They are filled with sweetened red bean paste.
3. They are a hand food. No respectable pancake can be eaten with the hands. This is not to say that hand foods do not have their place, because they do.

Context: Throughout Hong Kong there wonderful bakeries. Many Hong Kong people do not have ovens in their homes, thus any bread or dessert type delicacies have to be purchased rather than made. The traditional bakeries have large bins that guests are invited to tong out their goodies, and then they take them to the counter to have bagged up. Many people stop at the bakeries in the morning to pick up on-the-go breakfasts. There are suitable snacking on buses and subways.

There are two things that have recently happened. I have been stopping by a bakery before I go to work. Second, I have put on a little weight. I think the two are related. The bakeries have wonderful raisin and cinnamon twist, donuts, coconut buns and red bean buns.

Revelation:  As I was picking at my morning snack I discovered among the other offerings a “Red Bean Pancake.” I immediately spotted it as an imposter. This is no more real than the $20 Hermes belt I got in Shenzhen. But I decided to purchase it anyway in order to give it a try.

Review: The red bean pancake is based upon the red bean bun. One of the main differences is that the red bean bun is made with pastry type dough and the pancake is more like a cake donuts. Red bean paste is not everybody’s cup of tea. But I like it. But is definitely not a Western taste for breakfast.

Final Analysis: Like it – but definitely not a pancake.